First week of surfing

I must admit that it was pretty difficult for me. As I am a beginner who is able to do only white water surfing – I was practising it for the first two days (I am using 7''6 BIC so very basic and Marcin 7''2 Southpoint). Then I went on to try the bigger waves and got really frustrated. This is not an easy sport: you get washed out all the time, when you do not make it before the big wave you get twisted and turned many times, sometimes with surfboard hitting your head. So I was about to leave it and basically try something else: like diving. I decided to make one day break chill out and leave my frustrations behind. It worked: I started paddling harder and catching some of the small green ones yesterday next step will be trying to jump on the board on them. We are staying here three more weeks so I am curious about my “progress”;))))

Marcin is doing better – definitely catching the green and trying to surf along the waves.